[pjopek]

Hello everyone,
I have a newly purchased SU-6 and I want to ask.
Do I need to install the driver when using SU-6 in Windows 10 Pro?
And if so, what is the current working version of the driver? I currently have the SU-6 in plug'n'play mode.

My connection topology is:
Ludic Heimdall Netfilter G30 + SUPRA LoRad cable --> PC --> USB cable 2.0 A/B --> Singxer SU-6 DDC --> Coax cable SPDIF --> RME ADI-2 DAC FS - -> XLR cables --> Singxer SA-1 headphone amp --> balanced 4-pin XLR headphone cable --> HiFiMAN Arya Stealth headphones

Is there anyone here who also has a SU-6 connected to an RME ADI-2 DAC FS please?
Thank you.

 

[Ian S]

Do I need to install the driver when using SU-6 in Windows 10 Pro?
And if so, what is the current working version of the driver? I currently have the SU-6 in plug'n'play mode.

You probably don't want the current one.

I made a very welcome discovery.

My SU-6 had the problem of needing the USB lead unplugged and re-plugged every time the PC went into and out of sleep.

I had 5.12.0. I uninstalled that and installed the latest driver, 5.68.0, also had that problem. Then uninstalled those and installed the Singxer SU-1 driver 4.45.0 and now it works. Just as my SU-1 used to. Never needed to unplug that after sleep and now don't need with the SU-6.

 

[pjopek]

You probably don't want the current one.

I haven't installed any, that's why I'm asking. As it is written in the manual: 4. WINDOWS system needs to install the driver we provide, the latest version of WIN10 can be
used free of driver, but it is recommended to use the driver we provide.
And without the drivers, the SU-6 shows up normally in my audio device. RME then shows me the maximum transmission quality of 24bit/192kHz via coaxial cable.
Since I read that there are problems with those drivers, I prefer not to install.

 

[Xoverman]

@Xoverman

Regarding the other two 3045 for the USB area, from the photos I can't see exactly what you did.

Can you please explain.

For the 1.0 Volt:
Did you remove the remove that tiny 6 pin chip? yes
Did you remove that 3Ω3?
Where did you join the earth pin? ?
Did you buy a 1.0 V 3045 or use you own resistor to set it's voltage? I used my own resistors
Did you set the PGFB as with the 3.3 Volt 3045? I always use PGFB with the 3045 because I alwase use 22 or 47 µF
Did it need that much heatsink or would smaller one be enough. you do need a heatsink but it can be a little smaller

For the PLL:
Are you feeding 3.3 Volts to that chip marked? Y2933 32KG4 CEC2 What is it? No searches I did found it. TLC2933A High Performance Phase Lockes Loop
Did you disconnect the voltage to that chip so the 3045 could feed it? Where did you interrupt the supply? yes

Is it necessary to use screened lead? yes, it gives a defined return path
Did you set the PGFB as with the 3.3 Volt 3045? yes

Do you have an external 5 Volt PSU feeding the USB in the Singxer instead of the computer USB bus? Mine is fed from my computer via the USB lead so would these three 3045 regulators have more effect in my Singxer that your already isolated USB area? I have two sources. On e is a fiber isolated USB conection to the PC. And the other is a highly modified Opticalrendu Ver. 1.0.1
Thanks.

 

[Xoverman]

 

[Ian S]

@Xoverman

Thanks for that help.

For the PLL:
Where did you interrupt the supply? Did you cut each track from the via to the capacitor? I can't quite see it on the photo.

I think I'll get all three of the extra 3045 that you did as all the small changes can add up to something worth having.

As vibration affect the clock signals so much, have to tried sticking 4mm butyl damping pad to the PCB under the Xtals? Might it get them too hot, as it will insulate to some extent?

A

 

[dleblanc343]

If anyone is curious to compare their SU-6 with the original SU-1, I'm needing to make space and dismantling office rig.

SU-1 is yours for $100 shipped