[Mimetic]

Can you take a picture of Hypsos next to iFi Elite? I just wonder how big is iFi?

I don't have a Hypsos anymore but I'll take a picture of it next to Wandla in a little bit, Wandla and Hypsos are the same size. It's a pretty small unit, smaller than I was expecting it to be.

@Mimetic can you please give some more details on the ifi power elite. Is it the 24v version? Is the connection that it comes with suitable for the Wandla, or do you need an adapter of some sort?
Thanks in advance.
Cheers

Yep 24v version and it comes with all the adapters one could ever need. You'll need to use one of them with the Wandla.

 

[GoldenSound]

Any update on the GSE upgrade progam? Why is this taking so long when GSE is shipping already?

Conversion program requires a fair bit of extra development. Estimated to be ready 3-4 weeks from now

 

[GoldenSound]

Probably because headphones.com want to sell them first

Nothing to do with headphones.com. The only agreement there is the sales exclusivity in NA.

There's nothing else. And it's in Ferrum's interest to have the conversion program ready as soon as they can so rest assured it'll be out as soon as possible

 

[slsmaster]

Conversion program requires a fair bit of extra development. Estimated to be ready 3-4 weeks from now

But jokes aside: did a brief listen to the GSE features at the Meze booth in Munich, the one that impressed me the most was the spatial enhancement feature. Very nice indeed and not overdone.
Tube mode did smoothen the treble just a little bit, will be testing it with Euforia and a tube roll, that is not that sterotopically tube like sounding.

I don't have a Hypsos anymore but I'll take a picture of it next to Wandla in a little bit, Wandla and Hypsos are the same size. It's a pretty small unit, smaller than I was expecting it to be.

Yep 24v version and it comes with all the adapters one could ever need. You'll need to use one of them with the Wandla.

You already mentioned, that you couldn’t tell a difference between Hypsos and iFi iPower Elite. Have you done some A/B testing when switching from Hypsos? I am on the fence of upgrading either to Hypsos or the iFi.

 

[slsmaster]

Just ordered an iFi iPower Elite 24v from Amazon, which is priced more reasonably when compared to Hypsos.

Of course, it can only power one device, but as I don't plan to get OOR any time soon, it is fine for me.


I will do a thorough comparison with the stock power brick and let you know if I can discern any differences in sound.

 

[Nomax]

But jokes aside: did a brief listen to the GSE features at the Meze booth in Munich, the one that impressed me the most was the spatial enhancement feature. Very nice indeed and not overdone.

Yes and i am sure you will be not the only one it the future ....who sees and hears it the same way

NOMAX

PS.️If you listen to your music stationary....and you have a very good technically headphones....it's actually a MUST purchase/buy this GSE Version️

 

[Mimetic]

Can you take a picture of Hypsos next to iFi Elite? I just wonder how big is iFi?

Here ya go. Sorry for the delay, the boys called me out for a fishing trip.

Spoiler

You already mentioned, that you couldn’t tell a difference between Hypsos and iFi iPower Elite. Have you done some A/B testing when switching from Hypsos? I am on the fence of upgrading either to Hypsos or the iFi.

I did do some A/B testing and they sounded the same to my ear. If I was really splitting hairs I might even say the iFi had a slightly blacker background but I wouldn't be comfortable claiming that 100%; there was probably 30s or so between the switch back & forth. I did also try the different voltage settings on the Hypsos, couldn't notice a difference between them either. I think the Hypsos (or any PSU) benefits the OOR (an amplifier) a lot more than it would a DAC.

Just ordered an iFi iPower Elite 24v from Amazon, which is priced more reasonably when compared to Hypsos.

Of course, it can only power one device, but as I don't plan to get OOR any time soon, it is fine for me.


I will do a thorough comparison with the stock power brick and let you know if I can discern any differences in sound.

Going one step further, you could even buy another iFi to power an OOR and still save money

The all-Ferrum stack does look nice on the desktop though, mis-matched LED's kinda bothered me but I'm sort of OCD about that stuff. I just disabled them.

 

[Menkau-ra]

Here ya go. Sorry for the delay, the boys called me out for a fishing trip.

Spoiler

I did do some A/B testing and they sounded the same to my ear. If I was really splitting hairs I might even say the iFi had a slightly blacker background but I wouldn't be comfortable claiming that 100%; there was probably 30s or so between the switch back & forth. I did also try the different voltage settings on the Hypsos, couldn't notice a difference between them either. I think the Hypsos (or any PSU) benefits the OOR (an amplifier) a lot more than it would a DAC.

Going one step further, you could even buy another iFi to power an OOR and still save money

The all-Ferrum stack does look nice on the desktop though, mis-matched LED's kinda bothered me but I'm sort of OCD about that stuff. I just disabled them.

Oh, nice. It’s the size of the stock PSU. I like it.

I also can’t detect any voltage differences with Hypsos and Wandla.

 

[ChocolateChipTrip]

Generally if using Wandla with a tube amp, I'd set voltage output to 'red' mode and then vol control to about 90. But try tweaking the level to see what sounds best with your amp.

With other DACs either use the inbuilt vol control or vol control in your player to apply about 6-10dB vol attenuation

Interesting, as I found the opposite to be true on my ampsandsound Nautilus. To me, it sounds best with the amp set to max volume and Wandla set to "Pro" voltage output and XLR interconnects. I attenuate using the analog volume setting on the Wandla, landing somewhere between 45-85 depending on the headphone or speakers. Could be unique to Justin's amps, which he seems to recommend feeding with a hot source.

As a former May KTE owner, I find the Wandla and Nautilus to be a fantastic pairing, FWIW.

 

[GoldenSound]

Interesting, as I found the opposite to be true on my ampsandsound Nautilus. To me, it sounds best with the amp set to max volume and Wandla set to "Pro" voltage output and XLR interconnects. I attenuate using the analog volume setting on the Wandla, landing somewhere between 45-85 depending on the headphone or speakers. Could be unique to Justin's amps, which he seems to recommend feeding with a hot source.

As a former May KTE owner, I find the Wandla and Nautilus to be a fantastic pairing, FWIW.

If you're using the analog or digital vol control that Is also attenuating the output voltage.

 

[krude]

Interesting, as I found the opposite to be true on my ampsandsound Nautilus. To me, it sounds best with the amp set to max volume and Wandla set to "Pro" voltage output and XLR interconnects. I attenuate using the analog volume setting on the Wandla, landing somewhere between 45-85 depending on the headphone or speakers. Could be unique to Justin's amps, which he seems to recommend feeding with a hot source.

As a former May KTE owner, I find the Wandla and Nautilus to be a fantastic pairing, FWIW.

Same for HA300MK2

 

[kajetanjazz]

To me, it sounds best with the amp set to max volume and Wandla set to "Pro" voltage output and XLR interconnects. I attenuate using the analog volume setting on the Wandla, landing somewhere between 45-85 depending on the headphone or speakers

If 92 on the volume is 4V then you’re landing way way below that level. Using Pro mode means you start at 9.5V, with Red you wouldn’t need to attenuate down so much

 

[slsmaster]

If 92 on the volume is 4V then you’re landing way way below that level. Using Pro mode means you start at 9.5V, with Red you wouldn’t need to attenuate down so much

Exactly, I dont think that PRO mode attenuated further should sound better then RED mode attenuated less, when they both land at the same output voltage.

 

[slsmaster]

Just received my iFi elite, but the plug will not fit as it has a smaller hole then the plug of the default PSU. My iFi only came with center pin negative adapter, which does fit but is not the correct one.

Do I need another adapter?

Edit:

Yeah looks like the center pin negative adapter also adapts the barral size to 5.5mm x 2.5mm. The standard plug (center pin positive), which is attached to the wire has a plug size of 5.5mm x 2.1mm.

So I need an adapter.

 

[GoldenSound]

Just received my iFi elite, but the plug will not fit as it has a smaller hole then the plug of the default PSU. My iFi only came with center pin negative adapter, which does fit but is not the correct one.

Do I need another adapter?

Edit:

Yeah looks like the center pin negative adapter also adpats the barral size to 5.5mm x 2.5mm. The standard plug (center pin positive), which is attached to the wire has a plug size of 5.5mm x 2.1mm.

So I need an adapter.

The iFi iPower PSUs should come with more adapters, there's usually 5 in the box including the negative pin one. If those weren't in yours sounds like you may have received a "Refurbished" unit rather than a new one